You don’t understand how excited I am to take an American shower once I get home. The water heater in my apartment lasts 12-minutes, and requires you to turn a knob that “boosts” the system to get that 12-minute shower. That normally isn’t an issue, but every once in a while a girl just needs to drown herself in a hot shower to contemplate life – that doesn’t happen here! Anywhooo, the showers at the hostel were hot, clean, great water pressure and didn’t run out of water!
The rest of that day was pretty much a bust after traveling all day, so Bridget, my roommate, and I decided to eat a late dinner and crash so we would be able to get up early the next day.
First thing on the agenda, a 3-hour walking tour of the city! Almost every city in Europe has a free, 3-hour walking tour offered. It is a great opportunity to learn about the history, folklore and traditions of the city. The company that runs them (I can’t remember the name) employs college graduates who have moved to the city because they love it. I’ve taken tours with this company before and ever single tour guide is young, funny, energetic and full of stories. Our tour guide was Anna, a native or Florida who moved to Munich to complete her masters in german history. She is fluent in german, german by heritage and loves the city.
The tour started at 9:30 at the Marienplatz, the city center of Munich that was used for market, executions and home to the Glockenspiel. The Marienplatz is beautiful. Full of gothic architecture it was one of the few buildings of Munich that survived the bombings of World War II. It survived because a) it was too beautiful to knock down and b) it provided and air marker to identify the city’s location to pilots so they may bomb it.
The Glockenspiel is a percussion instrument, with three levels of turning figurines. The first level portrays revelers at a festival drinking beer and dancing. The second level is of a jousting tournament between a german man and a french man; they go around three times and on the third round the french man is unhorsed. The third, and final level, is of a king and queen drinking, what else, but beer. On the very top of the chimed clock is an owl, that on the final bell waddles forward and whoots once. All of this lasts a good ten minutes, and it is no wonder the Glockenspiel is rated the #1 most boring tourist event of Europe. It is BORING! However, when in Germany…
In the very center of the Marienplatz square is the column of Saint Mary. Built at the end of a war in 1638, it signifies the cities survival. The statue is pure gold. At the very base of the column, on each corner is a putti (statue). Each putti symbolizes the cities overcoming of the four great fears of the time – war, pestilence, hunger and heresy.
After leaving the Marienplatz, Anna, our tour guide, walked us through the city telling us much of the history. We learned about WW II, the stein, plague, religion and so much more. Munich is a completely rebuilt city. After WW II and the bombings almost nothing stood, and countless gothic buildings full of history were destroyed. Suspecting this would happen, the people of Munich went around the city before the bombings, and took thousands of pictures of their home so it could be rebuilt to its original glory.
Before WW II Munich had a large Jewish community. In 1932, Adolf Hitler was given a reason to pin his hatred on this community. One Jewish man struck a member of Hitler’s military, who fell and cracked his head open upon the street. This gave cause to a massive outright execution of all of the Jewish people within the city walls. Out of the approximate 1500 Jewish men, women and children in the city, 600 went to nearby concentration camps. 800 were murdered.
A nearby Catholic community learned of the planned massacre a day before it was to occur. Led by a priest they went to the local temple and warned them of what was to happen. Too dangerous to help them much more, the priest offered to take all religious relics and documents from the temple and put them into hiding. They promised and succeeded in returning these religious artifacts to what remained of the Jewish community in Munich after the end of WW II.
However, the Catholic church this community belonged to did not survive the air raids.
Fifteen years after WW II, the Catholic community was still trying to gain enough donations to rebuild its church. The Jewish Temple had already been rebuilt, subsidized by the government. However, the church was forced to attain donations, and during the hard economic times, few were able to donate enough to get the project in gear. In thanks for saving their communities religious relics and documents, the Jewish community donated enough money to help rebuild the Catholic Church. To this day, on the painted ceiling of the Catholic Church, there are symbols for each group who donated money to rebuild the church Up there, in gold paint, repeated throughout the church is a menorah. A symbol forever of the bonds of humanity surviving tragedy together, despite differences.
On the lighter side of the city’s history, many of the arch ways are pictured to have a friar with outstretched arms. In one is a bible, and the other is pointing. Locals will tell you, with a devilish smile, that he points to the local beer hall. This is not the case, however great that would be. The friar points to St. Mary’s column, the very center point of the city.
At this point in the tour we have come upon numerous Catholic Churches. Each one has a story to tell. A quick run down – one claims to hold the devil’s foot print. Turns out to just be the architects foot print, and a really cool local story. Another one holds a beer stein claiming to be a religious relic. Supposedly the cross at the top of the church fell down, and upon one brave man climbing up the tower, and replacing the cross, he pulled out a stein and drank deeply. After drinking the man threw down the glass stein to the street, and supposedly it did not shatter on the cobblestones. It is now considered to be a religious item – nevermind that when the man replaced the cross to its rightful location, he put it on wrong, and it points the opposite direction of all the other crosses in the city. Another church fails to advertise its stories, but it does have an intriguing sign across the entrances –
I get 1,2,3 and 5 – pretty standard. But, the fourth one to the right is a new one for me. There has got to be a story there, and that is all I am going to say about it.
After this the tour took a 15-minute lunch break, and Anna recommended a place to get a traditional quick german meal. I got a bratwurst with mustard on a hard crusted roll, and a beer, for 5 euro total. It was great! Munich has no open container law, so while walking the streets you will see many people on their lunch breaks walking with a drink in hand. The city asks you to be respectful, know your limits and place all glass containers on the outside of trash bins for recycling and returns purposes. Talking about this lunch is making me miss it. The spicy bratwurst was delicious, and the beer washed it down so well on the warm afternoon.
After the tour, Bridget and I did some shopping and wandered the city. We had a 10:30 p.m. train to Amsterdam to catch directly after a beer tour at 6:30 p.m. The train to Amsterdam was easily the most expensive transportation of the trip. It cost us 150 euro! Oh well. Back to the beer tour.
The free walking tour company offers a variety of tours that you must pay for as well. Bridget and I decided to take the beer tour. It cost 13 euro, went to four beer halls and gave you two free drinks. It ended at our hostel, which was conveniently across from the station in a familiar area of the city, since we had to catch a train at 10:30 p.m.
The first stop of the beer tour was outside the Hofbrauhaus, easily the most famous beer hall in Germany. You drink from beer steins, hear traditional music and meet lots of people. I tried the traditional beer. I have to say that steins – especially when full, are really heavy to lift. I don’t know how people drink out of them once they have had a couple of them. The beer was really good, but couldn’t compare to a Guinness. 🙂
After the Hofbrauhaus we went to a new beer hall and tried Augustina. I think if beer could be heavenly this would be it. It is called the “Pope’s beer.” Augustina, is Pope Benedict XVI’s favorite beer. Originally from Bavaria, Pope Benedict get this brew specially delivered to him occasionally. True Bavarian beer has no preservatives in it, from an edict in the 16th century which still holds today. This means it cannot be sent out beyond its borders for any length of time, or shipped out in massive quantities. So, the Pope has it specially delivered to him by plane. I have to say, Pope Benedict has great taste. I think Augustina is the best beer I have ever had, and I’m sad I will never taste it again.
I also tried Paulina – can’t say I was a fan. So I gave my half a liter to a fellow member of the beer tour. It was an amazing group to have this experience with, and I loved meeting all of them. There was a guy from Canada, a sister and brother from California, a guy from Denver and a sister and brother from Spain in our group. They were all so funny, and I wish I could have spent more time with all of them.
Too soon however, Bridget and I had to rush off to catch our train. Goodbye Munich and hello Amsterdam!